Did this ‘trip’ in 1987 when it was possible to do so.
The Pan-American Highway runs from Alaska to the top of South America,
save for a gap, the Darién Gap, in between. No roads through there to anywhere.
Air or water transpo only. Can’t drive. Don’t know where it picks up again
in Columbia. Currently, Panama and Columbia does not recognize overland
travel as a valid means of entry. If you are caught here without an entry
stamp, good fucking luck.)
Drive to the roads end in Yaviza, Panama. Hire boats and guides and travel by
water to Boca de Cupe where you get passport exit stamped. (Good luck
between here and Turbo, Columbia as you are now, officially ‘nationless’.)
Hire smaller boats and travel upriver until too shallow to navigate. This takes
about 3 days. Spend overnight at Indian village. Then you start walking for
four days, until you reach river big enough to provide navigation via the
Rio Atrato to Los Katíos National Park where we spent a few days. Then hire
another boat to take you across Golfo de Urabá to the town of Turbo, Columbia,
which by the way makes the Darien Gap look like Disneyland. The worst place
I have ever been in my life. Get passport stamped here. Hired three Russian
4wd vehicles (which always broke down) to take us to a town big enough to be
visited by a scheduled bus. From there travel to Cartagena which is beautiful.
From there a bus to Barranquilla, Colombia and to the airport and on to Miami, FL.
(Rented a car here and drove up the Lake Helen to visit Arthur Jones and Casey
at the Nautilus facility.)
Notes:
Upon being dropped of where the walking begins, we lunched on the river shore.
When we packed up to start walking, I did a quick check to see if I left anything
behind. It was then that I saw that we had been walking around a fer-de-lance
snake while lunching on the gravel bar, the deadliest snake in South America.
(I took a picture of it and it was confirmed by Arthur.) Had it bitten anybody,
despite us all walking around it. Death was a certainty.
Saw a single man walking through the jungle with nothing more than a black briefcase. WTF?
Met Loren Upton. He was attempting to drive his jeep, which is really winching,
hrough the gap. I have a photo of his abandoned vehicle on a gravel bar where he
left it. I sent him a copy of it when I got home. Don’t know if he ever finished.
Spent a safe night at a military outpost near the Panama / Columbia border.
We took two handles of whiskey to let us do so.
Water was only a problem for one long day. The guide would not let anybody leave
Yaviza without the capacity to carry about 10 liters of water.
Slept under mosquito netting. Had to take anti-histamines at night just to sleep
because of all the bug bites.
Lost 30 lbs. 20 lbs, 20lbs I did not have to lose.
This was the last year commercially available trips were available through the
Darien Gap. And only available for two months of the year. Other times, the rivers
are too high making passage impossible.
Officer in Tubo, stamping our passports, showing us a handful passports of
others less fortunate in the jail behind him, all drug smugglers.
Fleeing our motel room after she decided to double our costs to stay the night.
When she picked up a shotgun we spread out, met back at the plaza where we
rented the vehicles. Crazy town. Like the wild fucking west. Instead of riding horses,
they were driving chopped top pick-ups. Everybody seemed to be packing heat.
Open carry. I remember being in a dirt flood bar and saw a man swinging this young
woman (wife, girlfriend, hooker?) around by her hair, knocking chairs and tables over.
She had a long pony tail that he was holding on to and she was doing the same so
he would not pull the hair out her head. I jumped up, was going to go help her, half
the bar jumped in to restrain me. Not my business was told. Don’t be a hero.
Young and dumb I was.
We all got sicker than a dog eating at a Chinese place across from where we were staying.
We filled up all the toilets, could not flush them, they turn off the water at night. WTF.
I got up early and had to push start my taxi (57 Chev.) out front and told him to take me
to the airport before I shit all over his cab.
Could go on and on but got to move on.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darién_Gap
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boca_de_Cupe
en.wikipedia.org
I think the dangers are overrated in the Darien but this is what wiki has to say about it.
By land . . .
It is possible to hike from Colombia to Panama, or vice versa, but the conditions are very
difficult and often underestimated by those setting out on this trip. It is one of the rainiest
and most dangerous places on the planet, a lawless, unpoliced region, full of drug smugglers
and sometimes political rebels. Exact figures are not kept, but many migrants die on this trip.
The hiking trail is not easy, ascending abruptly over a mountain, and the four days of hiking
are a challenge even for a person in good physical shape with good shoes. Most migrants
are in mediocre physical shape or worse, and without equipment for hiking and camping.
Women carrying babies, or pregnant women, are not unusual, the former having been noted
by a UNICEF worker during a two-day trip in recent years as of 2021. Three migrant women
bore babies in the Darién between 2013 and 2021, with no medical help or supplies available.
The Darién Gap is one of the rainiest places on the planet. The rainfall produces flash floods
that can carry sleepers to their deaths. One must cross several rivers where there are neither
bridges nor boats. No services of any kind are available; one must carry food, a tent and water
purification materials sufficient for a hike of several days. Remains of deceased migrants are
often encountered. They die because they are too exhausted to continue, or have a problem
(such as blisters) that require treatment. There is no medical help available at all and no way
to evacuate someone ill, injured, or simply exhausted. A broken leg is usually fatal. Insects
are heavy and there is no shortage of snakes and carnivorous mammals. Numerous migrants
report that they were robbed; women may be raped. There is no police presence and no cell
phone signal.
In Capurganá, Colombia, and Yaviza, Panama, there is no shortage of young men who offer,
for a fee, to serve as guides and to provide "protection". There is no easy way to determine
if those who offer these services are knowledgeable and trustworthy, or criminals looking for victims.
Currently, Panama and Columbia do not recognize overland (travel by land) as a valid means of
travel. If you are caught without an entry stamp, good fucking luck.
Fotos:
Map for reference.
Mosquito netting we slept under.
Once of the river were traveled on. Rio Atrato?
At the Panama Columbia border. Me in the middle. On the left, our doctor. On the right my best mate
(from Ascot, England but don't hold that against him). There was a couple on their honeymoon. She later
got bit by a poisonous snake on the Inca Trail in Peru. had to air-vacked home to the UK.
Cartagena market.
Casey Viator. Lake Helen, FL.