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Purchasing new vehicles? Making an offer...

Performance Based

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About to buy a new motorcycle, going in tomorrow actually.

I've only ever purchased bikes from other individuals, never from a dealership.

When purchasing a car I usually offer initially 20-25% lower than KBB value and I wind up getting it for around 16-10% on average below KBB. This is also though with the same dealership I have used for a few years and have consistently gone back and am a repeat customer.

Is this the same for motorcycles? Or are there different protocols as the initial price is so much lower than for cars?
 
Not as much markup on motorcycles as cars. It depends on if there is manufacture rebate and the bike. If a bike is popular and they know they can sell it for list then they will probably stay with list. If it is a slow mover or something they have a lot of then they will come off 20%. The real popular fast sellers will even be priced over list.
I'm looking for a new bike now also.
 
All of the bikes I have purchased in the past were made off-season. Always got a better deal this way.
 
Not as much markup on motorcycles as cars. It depends on if there is manufacture rebate and the bike. If a bike is popular and they know they can sell it for list then they will probably stay with list. If it is a slow mover or something they have a lot of then they will come off 20%. The real popular fast sellers will even be priced over list.
I'm looking for a new bike now also.

+1. not even close to the same amount of markup. much less profit margin. Don't expect to get a steal unless you're buying from an individual who is in dire need to get rid of it. They are the best options for a good deal.
 
haha :)

Looking at getting a Ducati Sport Classic 1000 biposto. New there only 10,500 people selling them used (2-5 years) are still trying to get new prices for them. Offered KBB value on quite a few and they seemed to get insulted lol.
 
haha :)

Looking at getting a Ducati Sport Classic 1000 biposto. New there only 10,500 people selling them used (2-5 years) are still trying to get new prices for them. Offered KBB value on quite a few and they seemed to get insulted lol.

Just do your homework, shop around and if you can walk away with the bike and feel good about the price and what your getting, than go for it!!!

Good friend of mine just bought the 1098 ( SICK BIKE ) and didn't get much of a deal but the dealership through in 2 track days for free. So my suggestion, if they can't give you a deal, ask them to throw in some stuff...Helmet, Jacket, Track day...

If and when you do get a bike, post up pics!!!
 
from someone that works in the industry markup is 14% on average.
 
Just do your homework, shop around and if you can walk away with the bike and feel good about the price and what your getting, than go for it!!!

Good friend of mine just bought the 1098 ( SICK BIKE ) and didn't get much of a deal but the dealership through in 2 track days for free. So my suggestion, if they can't give you a deal, ask them to throw in some stuff...Helmet, Jacket, Track day...

If and when you do get a bike, post up pics!!!



1098s are beautiful, I was looking at the 848s for a bit. I got in a bad wreck a few years back so I am a little scared about getting on something too crazy right now. Really love the body style still though of the 748s and 916/996/998 line.

Yah I'll need 2 helmets so that might be something good to ask for!
 
when you are working the deal with your sales dude have him pencil sell it to you on paper with all the details rebates tax ect...then take that and ask to use his fax and fax it to at least 3 other dealers with a cover letter can you beat this price and your name and cell phone on it.....that usually gets the best deal before you actually get to the fax machine
 
when you are working the deal with your sales dude have him pencil sell it to you on paper with all the details rebates tax ect...then take that and ask to use his fax and fax it to at least 3 other dealers with a cover letter can you beat this price and your name and cell phone on it.....that usually gets the best deal before you actually get to the fax machine


AWESOME idea man!
 
lots of people buy bikes on impulse and they show up on craigslist in a few months. Very low miles and save big. don't get in a hurry and check craigslist for your area every day. most almost new bikes will still have factory waranty. of course most will be cash only but have seen some where you can take over payments.
 
lots of people buy bikes on impulse and they show up on craigslist in a few months. Very low miles and save big. don't get in a hurry and check craigslist for your area every day. most almost new bikes will still have factory waranty. of course most will be cash only but have seen some where you can take over payments.

I've been checking CL pretty regularly, people are wanting 2x KBB or NADA values for the bikes. Seems like people think just because its a duck its magically worth more lol. Made an offer actually on an 848 the other day, after some haggling it wounded up being a grand more than KBB and the guy still wouldn't take it.
 
About to buy a new motorcycle, going in tomorrow actually.

I've only ever purchased bikes from other individuals, never from a dealership.

When purchasing a car I usually offer initially 20-25% lower than KBB value and I wind up getting it for around 16-10% on average below KBB. This is also though with the same dealership I have used for a few years and have consistently gone back and am a repeat customer.

Is this the same for motorcycles? Or are there different protocols as the initial price is so much lower than for cars?

For any new vehicle purchase you should be able to pull up and invoice for that VIN number online. this wont account for dealer added upgrades, like aftermarket running boards on a truck, but it will tell you exactly what you have to pay the factory for the vehicle. See the dealership doesn.t own anything on the lot, they are on consignment so to speak from the factory and the dealer has a time frame to sell it before they have to buy it. so Print and invoice for the one you want, and be prepared to pay a small house pack. If the invoice is 10000, the dealer may want to make a minimum of 300 per unit so you will pay 10300. that number will be minus all incentives, lets say a 500 rebate, PLUS tax , tags, and registration.


If you go into a dealer with an invoice in hand for the individual unit you want to purchase, simply tell them(a manager not a salesmen, the salesmen has rules to follow to keep his job that the manager can bend) that you will purchase on the spot for this price, if they say anything more than a few hundred above that price(house pack can be anywhere from 2-500) simply walk away. there is a dealer that has what you want and will sell it to you basically at cost +pack, you just need to look.

I was a finance manager at a dealership for 7 years, trust me, if they want to move a unit, know your ready and qualified to buy, theyll love making an easy fast deal. they can crush the next guy on price. so a smart manager will make a deal he KNOWS is there and not gamble on not moving the unit. but DO NOT NEGOTIATE, tell them the price you will pay and thats it.
 
KBB and NADA are a JOKE, do not use them they are a national Wholesale average price that has no bearing on local market conditions. I used to tell customers if they wanted that for their vehicle please call KBB and ask the mto buy it from you. IT MEANS NOTHING AT ALL>
 
KBB and NADA are a JOKE, do not use them they are a national Wholesale average price that has no bearing on local market conditions. I used to tell customers if they wanted that for their vehicle please call KBB and ask the mto buy it from you. IT MEANS NOTHING AT ALL>

X2
 
when you are working the deal with your sales dude have him pencil sell it to you on paper with all the details rebates tax ect...then take that and ask to use his fax and fax it to at least 3 other dealers with a cover letter can you beat this price and your name and cell phone on it.....that usually gets the best deal before you actually get to the fax machine

I used to sell cars and I can tell you that this works. Nothing puts the pressure on the salesman like this. If they refuse to fax it for you then you just walk away. It pisses them off and you probably wont get treated too good, but it gets you a better price for sure.
 
If your tiny 170lbs less get a 600cc

If your almost 200lbs or over get a 1000cc

I had to sell my 600 cause i weight 230lbs

04+ Yamaha R1
04+ GSXR-1000
04+ Honda 1000
02+ Hayabusa

Just get used to it and dont floor it, you will get the hang of it in 2-3 weeks of riding it.

You can find any of the above binks for 5-6k easily (In Miami Atleast)

Look around CRAIGSLIST, Look REALLY good for the BEST deals, dont buy a bike with over 15k miles if u wanna resell it youll have ALLOT of trouble selling a bike with lots of miles.

Look on KBB the value of the bike and always offer 300-700 less than what they are asking$ Depending on the condition of the bike.

Check first BRAKES(If they lock up prepare to fall and bust ur ass),TIRES(They are like your fucking life on these) NEVER drive a bike with bad tires. Its like driving on drag radials in the rain if you have bad tires.

Also never floor your bike on the streets and always watch your surroundings and if you do floor the bike make shure your on the LEFT lane not the right lane, had too many friends get hit by people taking the stop sign by a little bit or driving it too foward and bumper/hood hitting.

Goodluck, hopefully you have ur motorcycle endorsement even though i dont have one lol.

A 600 can be ridden all day by someone that weighs 230lbs. I had an 07 600rr and at the time I was about 235 it would do anything I wanted it to with me on it. I did track days on a regular basis with it, you could clutch of wheelies in first second and third or power wheelie it in first
 
I've been checking CL pretty regularly, people are wanting 2x KBB or NADA values for the bikes. Seems like people think just because its a duck its magically worth more lol. Made an offer actually on an 848 the other day, after some haggling it wounded up being a grand more than KBB and the guy still wouldn't take it.

How about one of those really powerful BMW's they make now? Those are some really nice bikes and they last forever. I had a friend that had one with over 275,000 miles on it and it was all original. Do people jack the prices up on the BMWs?
BMW Motorrad USA
I would think that or one of the other BMWs could hang with the Ducati.
 
About to buy a new motorcycle, going in tomorrow actually.

I've only ever purchased bikes from other individuals, never from a dealership.

When purchasing a car I usually offer initially 20-25% lower than KBB value and I wind up getting it for around 16-10% on average below KBB. This is also though with the same dealership I have used for a few years and have consistently gone back and am a repeat customer.

Is this the same for motorcycles? Or are there different protocols as the initial price is so much lower than for cars?

Same process I say.
 
Not to thread jack, but your OP about offering 20-25% lower than KBB really will help me within the next couple days- I too plan on purchasing a new vehicle for the first time.

Thanks for the helpful hint!
 

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